One of the most important questions surrounding the 2024 EU elections was whether the results would affect the Green Deal, the European Commission’s flagship project designed to promote a more sustainable EU economy. A change in direction would be crucial for fashion and lifestyle brands. Indeed, the textile industry is increasingly influenced by EU legislation, with the Green Deal encompassing legislation that affects everything from product design to waste management. Read on for a breakdown of the election’s outcomes, and what they mean for the future of fashion legislation.
How will the election affect the Green Deal?
The cost of living and defence were expected to be the key issues of the election, due largely to the effects of the coronavirus pandemic and the war in Ukraine. And some expected the Green Deal to take a back seat to these concerns. However, the election did not see major shifts in party dynamics. While there were some changes in the European Commission (EC), key players such as Maroš Šefčovič, Executive Vice-President, have remained in positions relevant to the Green Deal and industrial policy. As a result, sustainability and the Green Deal can be expected to remain at the forefront of the EU’s legislative agenda.
In fact, one of the most important developments for fashion brands has little to do with the election. Indeed, the fashion industry is a relative newcomer to Brussels, but its voice has gained strength after several years of engagement with policymakers. Through trade organisations like EURATEX, fashion brands large and small can thus be expected to play an increasingly active role in shaping the conversation around fashion legislation.
What to expect from the new European Parliament
The relative continuity seen in the European Parliament (EP) is key for businesses in the fashion industry. This is because major policies, such as the Green Deal and other sustainability regulations, are expected to continue to develop. The EC’s focus will be on implementing legislation already in the pipeline, such as textile labelling, waste framework directives, and eco-design regulations.
In addition, key pieces of legislation affecting the fashion industry – including mandates on traceability, recyclability, and environmental impact claims – will continue to be negotiated and refined, albeit with a greater focus on linking sustainability to economic growth.EC president Ursula von der Leyen’s political priorities for 2024-2029 support this forecast, particularly in her call for a ‘Clean Industrial Deal’. This emphasises the joint goals of industrial growth and environmental progress. For the fashion industry, this will mean a nuanced discussion on how environmental rising standards can coexist with economic goals.
The legislation fashion brands need to be aware of
The EC’s regulatory focus remains on implementing the legislation from the previous mandate. This includes, for example, the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), whose sector-specific reporting standards for textiles and accessories will come into force in 2026. Also important for the fashion industry are the Green Claims Directive and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
In terms of waste management, the Waste Shipment Regulation will impose stricter rules on the export of waste outside the EU from 2026. Meanwhile, the Waste Framework Directive, which introduces extended producer responsibility (EPR) for textiles, has reached the negotiation stage between the EC, EP and the European Council.
The fashion industry therefore needs to analyse its practices across the value chain, from raw material sourcing all the way to waste management and reporting. Many discussions are still ongoing – for example, how to define recyclability for textiles, or how to set minimum specifications for products to be sold in the EU. By gaining a better understanding of their own practices, brands will not only be able to comply more easily – they will also be able to play a more active role in shaping these discussions.
Understanding the EU’s legislative outlook
Topics such as the circular economy and resource management, as well as chemical and PFAS regulation, were subjects of discussion during the previous EP mandate, and these were repeated in von der Leyen’s guidelines. New topics such as the definition of green investment and gender equality, may also enter the conversation.
Meanwhile, implementation is the name of the game. Demands from textile industry groups to legislators have also moved in this direction, emphasising a level playing field where all companies must comply with the same rules, with clear guidelines for both major brands and small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), and a minimal administrative burden.
The next step for fashion brands is to assess their compliance with existing EU regulations and explore their options in terms of their operational footprint – from sourcing to logistics. Indeed, the ability to secure alternative sources of materials and products, emphasising a ‘closed-loop’ built on circular solutions, is likely to be key to the success of many fashion brands in the coming years.
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